Cyclostravaganza 2008: Owen Sound to Shelburne

I cycled from Owen Sound to Shelburne. I met 3 cyclists on the road who were biking coast to coast to raise money for Alzheimer's - but they weren't carrying their bags, so I couldn't quite keep up with them.

It was another windy day, with a cross-wind to try to blow me into the traffic. In Flesherton (or thereabouts), I caught up with the Alzheimer cyclists, who had stopped to shake hands and kiss babies. (Well, there weren't actually babies...) There I met a kind local cyclist who suggested a side-road I could take from Dundalk to Shelburne. That made all the difference to my day. On highway 6, I had had to spend most of my attention on the poor quality of the shoulder and on the motorists speeding home from their cottages who really didn't want to be where they were at that moment and just wanted to get elsewhere fast... and the poor shoulder quality and proximity to traffic meant I couldn't really cycle that fast myself. The sideroad, however, was so nice and quiet, the road was actually better, and somehow the wind turned into a mostly-tailwind. It was smooth sailing as I roared past a fantastic windmill-farm (new to me, hadn't seen that when I was last in these parts) and into the town of Shelburne.

The reason for cycling to Shelburne was to visit my uncle and aunt A. & S. who live just outside the town. For supper, mean old A. & S. force-fed me wine, roast chicken, squash, potatoes, special broccoli, condiments galore (chutneys and hot sauces and relishes), strawberries with cream, rhubarb crisp, and brownies with pecans. The 5000-calorie life is really tough, eh? S.'s grandson Z. was also visiting (but not S.'s other boys). It was fun to see Z. - it had been a very long time.

Cyclostravaganza 2008: Tobermory to Owen Sound

I cycled from Tobermory to Owen Sound. The traffic on highway 6 was very unpleasant, so I took a sideroad as soon as I could. This had the bonus of taking me along the coast instead of inland, so I had better views. I also had several climbs... including one descent past a freshly-killed skunk. (What would smell worse, a freshly-killed skunk or a not-so-freshly-skilled skunk?) If you were to ask, "Why did the animal (hare, skunk, raccoon, snake, turtle...) cross the road in southern Ontario?", sadly, the answer would have to be, "To get run over."

It was a 4H kind of day: hot, humid, hilly, headwind. One of my calorie-boosting treats was in Wiarton, when I needed sugar, something cold, and something caffeinated, so I had a double espresso over vanilla ice cream. Yummy! All said, I was exhausted by the time I got to Owen Sound (and frustrated with myself for missing a turn for the regular route, and thereby adding an extra 10km or so of detour). I camped at the campground of Owen Sound's municipal park. It's located in a beautiful ravine setting. The sites were a bit crowded and the facilities could use a bit more attention, but on the whole it was nice enough - and they gave me a special cyclists'/backpacker's rate. Wahoo again!

Cyclostravaganza 2008 - Espanola to Tobermory

After Espanola, I travelled south on Highway 6. This stretch, from Espanola to Little Current, was one of the most beautiful parts of my trip. I think it's called the La Cloche mountains. The road takes you through all sorts of different geologies, including a marble mountain. I picked up a chunk from the edge of the road (white with pink) as a souvenir.

I had been planning on spending a rest day on Manitoulin Island to go hiking, but the nice hikes seemed far from campgrounds - plus it was a sunny day and the weather forecast was dicey, and I thought it was best to make hay while the sun shone, so on I pressed on Highway 6 through Manitoulin Island. It was pretty enough but not remarkable. Perhaps if I'd turned off the main road there might have been nicer stretches.

I took the Chi Cheemaun ferry from South Baymouth to Tobermory. It's about 1.5-1.75 hours across, and you are never out of sight of some island or another. A very sizable number of the crew were Newfoundlanders or Cape Bretoners - surprise!

I was hoping to camp in the national park on Friday evening, but when I arrived that evening, there were no spots left, so I camped in a private campground in Tobermory instead. Private campgrounds are generally cheaper but often less scenic.

I had scheduled a day in Tobermory to explore the park but I wasn't sure what exactly to do, and again wanted to press ahead while it was clear. Wahoo: between the tailwind day on highway 17, and the two foregone rest days (Manitoulin and Tobermory) I was now well ahead of schedule.

Cyclostravaganza 2008 - Summary, St. Joseph's Island to Espanola

On July 9, it was time to leave the comfort of D's cottage on St. Joseph's Island. I'm not very good with getting away early. By the time we had breakfast and had tea with a friend of D's who was passing through, by the time I packed up, by the time I became un-lost from my wrong turn, and after stopping at the local bakery for supplemental carbs (you can never get enough when cycling - even though D very kindly packed me some fantastic muffins)... well, it was almost 1pm by the time I got from D's place in the island back to the main road (highway 17). Once there, I was treated to the most amazing tailwind. Instead of struggling for a cruising speed of 25km/h and an average of ~20km/h, I was sailing along at 35km/h - which pleased me greatly, given the 50+ pounds of gear I was lugging. Wheeeeeeeeeee!

On the road I met several cyclists. Two were French Canadians who, after a bit of conversation, recognised me from the log entry I'd left in the guestbook back at Vélorution in the Sault. Wow, that was neat. They were slower than me, so I pushed on and met three cyclists - one Aussie living in Victoria, two Britons - and we soared along in the wind. I felt I needed a campground (shower, laundry, etc.) so I bid them adieu while they carried on to enjoy the wind a little longer and later search out a field or such. It would have been nice to ride longer, but I can't complain as I got in 137km with a heavy load and having left after noon. I camped at the KOA in Spragge on the Serpent River - nice enough but nothing remarkable, and there was a fair bit of noise from the road. My site was near the CPR line, and when a train passed early in the morning, it felt like an earthquake.

On July 10 (today), I came to the conclusion that it is a lovely thing to move slowly in the morning. So what if it takes me almost 4 hours to have breakfast, clean up, pack up, and go? As long as the weather cooperates, it's so nice to savour the breeze and delight in the birdsong.

The morning brought a long stretch of construction, riding over very rough roads. Ugh. The rest of the day held a lot of traffic. Double ugh. I'm very glad for the rearview mirror I bought in the Sault. I pull off the road a lot just to be sure. Cars and trucks are very good about giving me room, but sometimes (i.e., traffic in the other lane) there isn't room for them to move very far. Even though there is usually still enough room, well, better safe than sorry.

I stopped for a midday break in Massey, Ontario, and did some minor groceries: canned milk (for breakfast another morning - canned milk is not my favourite, but hey, no refrigeration needed!), a slice of strawberry-rhubarb pie (mmm, bring on the calories - you can't get enough when cycling), and almost a pound of organic dark cherries. Yummy. As I was snacking leisurely, I felt guilty about stopping for so long, until I realised: hey! I'm on vacation! I have no one else to please but myself, so why not enjoy the moment?

My original goal for today had been Massey (see google map) but yesterday's tailwind put me ahead of schedule. Late afternoon rainfall, however, cut me off, so I stopped in Espanola (see google map) for the night. The cold rain was making me desperate for shelter. Gentle reader, I can advise you not to stay at the cheap motel next to the Greyhound bus station... though hopefully you didn't need my reminder.

An early start tomorrow should take me on to Manitoulin Island. Fortunately the weather looks good!

Cyclostravaganza 2008 - Summary, White River to St. Joseph's Island

Hello from St. Joseph's Island, Ontario!

My cycling trip has been going quite well. This is a summary of my trip to date. At a later date, daily blogs and photos may be added if I have time... or not!!

Lake Superior is a superior lake indeed. Is it heresy for a Nova Scotian to think it might just be better than the ocean? No jellyfish, no seaweed, no bad smells, crystal-clear water, an abundance of sandy beaches, waves (although not as big as on the ocean), water you could drink while swimming... it's just been a wonderful discovery.

The coast of Lake Superior, from Wawa to Sault-Ste-Marie, was very hilly. There were lots of hills (up to 511m) and although the climbs were not overly steep (the steepest marked grade I've seen was 7%), they were long. On the slow climbs, I sometimes reassure myself by considering that the sum of my weight, my bike's weight, and my luggage's weight is about 275 lbs, and that it is therefore okay if my own pedal-power isn't all that fast.

Much of the ride was inland but the portions by the lake (Wawa, Old Woman Bay, Agawa Bay, Alona Bay, Katherine Cove, Pancake Bay, Michicopoten Bay...) were stunning. In Wawa I stayed with a friend at his parent's house on Lake Superior (magnificent!), then I camped at Agawa Bay (beautiful) and Pancake Bay (wonderful but not quite as nice as Agawa Bay).

I took three days to ride from Wawa to the Sault. I felt a little under-achieving when I later met cyclists who covered this stretch in one day. I'm still in awe of them, but I have to remind themselves that while I was just at the start of my cycling trip, they'd been on the road for about 6 weeks or so, having started their journeys in Vancouver or Victoria. Their warm-up was with the coastal mountains and the Rockies.

In Pancake Bay I saw a brochure for a bike shop in the Sault called Vélorution, which offered mountain biking trails and free camping to cyclists, so that's where I stayed in the Sault. I was initially a little suspicious (would this just be a place for teenage mountain bikers to run away from their parents, and be loud and drink beer?) but instead it turned out to be a wonderful place. The owner is a bike-loving physiotherapist who opened this shop about 3 years ago. He added a separate entry to the bathroom with a shower, and a small campground at the rear. This was actually where I met those trans-Canada cyclists. On the road, you don't always see them; in bigger campgrounds, you get mixed in with all the other campers; so it was really wonderful to have this small community of cyclists where we could swap stories and share tips and advice.

On Sunday, I took a rest day for the Agawa Canyon tour train. It's about four hours north of the Sault (that is, four hours on a slow train) through scenery that is by turns okay and by turns spectacular. The canyon itself is fantastic with its steep walls and river valley. I had some lovely hikes on the canyon's very well maintained trails. The train ride back was a bit long, but hey, it was a chance to read, snooze, and write in my notebook/journal.

In the Sault I bought a rear-view mirror for my bike. I wish I had this earlier! I must say that on the whole, drivers (and especially transport-truck drivers) have been very good about giving me a wide berth, but all the same, it's so much more reassuring when you can see what sort of (and how many) vehicles are about to pass you.

On Monday I once again had some great luck. My friend D. and his Mom had to come into the Sault to do some groceries, so we met up, and D, took my bags with him in his car. It's amazing how much faster you can cycle without 52 lbs of gear! I then cycled out to St. Joseph's Island, where I am visiting with him for another rest day.

Goodness, a family email like this should contain some food matters. I have mostly been eating in restaurants (as carrying food is heavy). When I look at the super-sized portions, I think about how crazy this is for the average person... but how great it's been for me. Cycling burns a lot of calories. Through Lake Superior Provincial Park, there are long stretches with no services, so I had to do some cooking. My main course one evening consisted of two packages of ramen noodles, 1/2 of one package of seasoning (spicy chicken), and one tin of herring fillets in hot sauce. It was actually not that bad, though next time I'll use Thai-flavoured spicy tuna and add some peanut butter to make the broth into peanut sauce. Man does not live on ramen alone, so fortunately I also had cheese, crackers, fruit, and hot chocolate.

Tomorrow, the journey onward continues. Wish me good weather! The stretch from here to Espanola should be okay, but I'm more looking forward to Manitoulin Island and the Bruce Peninsula... and then rest days and visits with A. & S. It will be great to see them.

Cyclostravaganza 2008: White River ON to Toronto ON

Tonight I set out on my next big cycling trip. I am taking this easy, so I aim to complete the approximately 1000km in just under 3 weeks. I will have lots of rest days, plus visits with friends and family along the way.

First I take the bus from Montreal to Sudbury. Some of their tourism copy says, "Whether you're seeking solitude, a little romance, or perhaps some quality time with the kids, Sudbury offers adventure that is within eveyone's reach. In a few hours, you'll see - Outdoor Adventure is in our Nature!" ...and what copy that is! I never equated Sudbury and romance before, but I guess I just haven't lived yet; I do have "a few hours" on my stopover - I wonder if that's enough - but I guess if the romance part doesn't work out, I can enjoy Sudbury's solitude.

From Sudbury I take the train to White River, Ontario, and after an overnight stay, there begins my cycling adventure. I ride down to Wawa, where I will stay with a friend from a Montreal choir. Next stops are Lake Superior Provincial Park and Pancake Bay Provincial Park, en route to Sault-Ste-Marie. I've heard that this stretch, along Lake Superior, is very hilly but also very beautiful, so I'm quite looking forward to this.

From Sault-Ste-Marie, I'll take a day-trip on the Agawa Canyon train. This is supposed to be one of the nicest train rides in Canada, and it will be a rest-day for my legs.

Next, a short ride to St. Joseph Island to visit another friend at his cottage. I'll have another slack day visting him before cycling east along Lake Huron, then south through Manitoulin Island. After the ferry to Tobermory comes exploration of the Bruce Peninsula, then a visit with family before continuing on to Toronto, from where I'll take the bus or train back to Montreal.

Here is a map of roughly what I plan to do. Follow this link for a larger map, showing many of my planned stops.

CCCP: My new cycling club

Today I went riding with my new cycling club. They are associated with a local bike shop, called Cycle Pop and so the club is called Club Cycliste Cycle Pop, or for short, CCCP. As you can see from the club's website, the logo features a wrench and cog, styled in the manner of a hammer and sickle, and the team colours are red and white.

That brings me to one of my concerns: the club attire (mandatory shorts and jersey) are red and white. I thought everyone knew that bike shorts must never be red or white, as the following picture (not from my club) certainly illustrates:



Oh well!

It was so nice to get out for a ride. I've been cycling my city bike all winter long, but yesterday was the first time out for a real ride on my better bike.

The group headed to the Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve (racetrack) and divided into four groups, with various target speeds. I thought I wouldn't let my hubris take the best of me, as I haven't done much training this winter, so I didn't place myself into the fast group right away... but my group was too easy for me, so I moved up. Hooray for ego-boosters!

Unfortunately there were two accidents in our ride. (My friends assured me that last year they only had one accident in the whole season.) The first time, someone at the front of the pack decided to change directions (turn or go straight) at the last minute, without adequate lead-time or signalling, and the person following didn't have time to react. Ouch! Fortunately she wasn't hurt beyond some scrapes. The second accident was one of the strangest accidents I've seen. He pulled out of the peloton for a minute, and suddenly just flipped over! Either his rear derailleur or his chain seized up for some weird reason. His chain broke and his derailleur will need serious work, but fortunately he too was uninjured. Let's hope future rides are uneventful!

After the ride, Syvlain, Patrice, Steve, Bruno, and I went to brunch just off St-Laurent, and then to a beautiful chocolate shop on St-Denis for hot chocolate. Life is good!